Stephane Derbord – Dijon

From a meal in 2006.

Stephane Derbord (Michelin 1-star) Dijon: http://www.restaurantstephanederbord.fr/      I had read about Derbord on a food blog and owe thanks to Chocolate and Zucchini for “discovering” this restaurant. One stars can be iffy experiences – some are good and some are horrid. This one is definitely good.  The room is charming – well spaced tables, beautiful flower arrangements, contemporary without being stark.   Amuse: 1. Croque Monsieur-a miniaturized version of the classical ham and cheese sandwich. 2. Smoked trout mousse with a sesame seed coated baton 3. Parmesan tuile with jambon (ham)  4. Cromesqui of tomato Excellent, inventive, not avant-garde, but well conceived and well made.   Amuse # 2: 1. In a wide shot glass, beef tartar done the traditional way with capers and onions and topped with horseradish cream. 2. Warm cream of asparagus soup topped by a triangle of crisp filo. 3. Feuillete (flaky pastry) stuffed with some type of fish mixture and frise with black sesame seeds on the side. There was some type of foam, but my notes are no help. Again each dish was quite good with the nod going to the beef tartar.   1st Course: Cannelloni de Farce Fine de Grenouilles, Veloute de chou-Fleur, Emulsion au Cresson. The veloute of cauliflower was at the top and bottom of the plate, the watercress emulsion was at the center and a frog’s leg sat on top of both. The cannelloni was horizontally placed and stuffed with chopped frog’s legs and a traditional parsley “sauce”. The cannelloni was a bit tough, but the “stuffing” was excellent.    2nd Course: Me – Les queses de Langoustines en carcasse, chapelure du Polenta au lard fume, puree de petits pois, mousse au saffron. 4 langoustines were presented in the shell on a beautiful blue glass rectangular plate. The langoustines sat on polenta “batons” that were studded with smoked bacon. A line of pea puree was placed across the top and bright yellow saffron foam (mousse) draped each langoustine. The langoustines were delicious, but the polenta overwhelmed the dish. I ended up deconstructing the dish to highlight the langoustines not the polenta. All in all, though, a good dish.   John -2nd course- Filet d”Agneu deu Bourbonnais Roti a l’Ail, compote de tomatoes et courgettes confites, salad d’ herbes a l’Huile d” Argan. Lamb filet roasted with garlic accompanied by thinly sliced eggplant rolled around tomato confit, baby carrot slices, a roasted cherry tomato and a smaller “salad” with argan oil.  Delicious subtle flavors. A good hit for John.   3rd Course Cheese cart: Can’t go wrong – great selection and nice service.     4th Course: Dessert: Me – Strawberries 1. Strawberry gratin 2. In a glass of strawberry juice a lollipop much like an Eskimo pie filled with strawberry mousse 3. A millefeuille of puff pastry and strawberry cream. 4. Fresh tiny strawberries in a syrup of violets.   John – vanilla in 3 flavors. 1. Millefeuille of the puff pastry with vanilla cream 2. Cold soufflé with caramel 3. An ice-cream cone with vanilla ice cream   Mignardises 1. A bon bon filled with vanilla cream. 2. Macaroons 3. type of yogurt 4. some type of cookie   Citron de Crème Legere. A digestif very reminiscent of lemonade. Summary: Stephane Derbord was a pleasant surprise-a solid 1-star with a charming chef’s wife leading and managing the competent front-of-the-house team. This plus a very committed chef and staff who demonstrate the chef’s passion on the plate made for a delicious lunch.