Providence

5955 Melrose Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90038
Phone: 323.460.4170
Fax: 323.460.4491
info@providencela.com

Executive Chef / Proprietor: Michael Cimarusti
Chef De Cuisine: Paul Shoemaker
Pastry Chef: Adrian Vasquez

Providence is just getting better and better. Peter, our favorite waiter, is terrific; answering my endless questions, checking with Chef Michael when he isn’t sure of a preparation and even writing down the cheeses and desserts when I got tired of note-taking. We usually don’t look at a menu and put ourselves in the hands of the staff.

Kushi Oyster with Tabasco “Caviar”,Tabasco/Horseradish Gelee

My guess is that the “caviar” was done using Adria’s technique of filling a syringe with the Tabasco mixture and then releasing the “juice”, one drop at a time into a calcium chloride mixture. The “caviar” is then cooked in boiling water for one minute and then strained and held in a water bath.

Sashimi of Rhode Island Scallops, Pickled Plum Puree, Cucumber & Shiso with Pickled Plum Broth

My companion, who is not a fan of scallops loved this dish as the scallops were thinly sliced and had a Japanese sensibility.

Delaware Striped Bass Belly Tartare Wrapped in a Soy Sauce and Yuzu Gelee, Lemon/Lime Espuma, Arbequina Oil, Sliced Radish

This was stupendous – the combination of the soy sauce/yuzu gelee with the tartare was absolutely perfect.

Baby Japanese Octopus, flash poached, Tomato Relish, Mizuna, Chive Agar

 

Peter then poured a small amount of octopus broth over the dish tableside – another winner!

Live Spot-Prawns, Salt-crusted with Rosemary, Lemon, Castelas Olive Oil

 

 

 

 

 

Donnato first presented the salt covered casserole. He then “uncovered” the prawns. He then prepped them tableside. Plated. I ate every morsel, including the eyeballs.

Canadian Smoked Salmon, Smoked Steelhead roe, American Caviar, Peas, Crispy Salmon Skin, Pea Tendrils

Yet another spectacular seafood course with each element adding to the whole.  Having confidence in your ingredients and your technique is lacking in today’s world of fine dining.  It’s refreshing to experience a chef working against that unfortunate norm.

At this point, the wine was starting to work it’s magic, and my note-taking took an abrupt turn down a very incoherent side-street.  Thus, you’re going to have to rely on the porn alone.  Buckle up!

New Zealand John Dory a la plancha, Braised Sunburst Potatoes, Garlic Whistles, Lemon Gewurztraminer Emulsion

Foie Gras a la plancha, Nantes Carrot Puree, Forest Ramps, Miner’s Lettuce, Porcini, Bordelaise Sauce with Porcini and an Oven-Dried Ramp Leaf

King Salmon (Sitka Alaska) Dutch White Asparagus, Fava Beans, Rhubarb Chip

Cheese Course: Malvarosa – Sheep – Spain / Rogue River – Cow – Washington / Sophia – Goat – California / Burratina – Goat – Italy || Garnishes of: Black Olive Jam, Tomato Jam, Figs, Walnuts, 5-seed Bread

Dessert Compilation: Saffron Rice Pudding with Strawberry Sorbet, Chipotle Chocolate Cremeux with Avocado and Blackberry, Raspberry Foam with Balsamic Marshmallow and Graham Cracker Ice Cream

Conclusion: This was a glorious meal that I feel fortunate to have been able to experience.  I simply cannot sing the praises of Providence loud enough.  LA has experienced a saddening steady decline in the quality of fine restaurants over the years, and the tide seems to finally be changing for the better.  With restaurants like Providence leading the charge, my enthusiasm for food in my city has been reignited.

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