Providence

Unfortunately I had to miss this meal. It was a special dinner at the Chef’s Table with a menu specially devised for the occasion by Chef Michael Cimarusti. As usual, Roving Reporter didn’t take notes so the photos will have to tell the story. All wines were BYO.

Krug

Nantucket Bay Scallops, Nasturtium, Yuzu – the scallops were wrapped in the nasturtium leaf

Kanpachi Belly Tartare, Wood Sorrel, Caviar

The Kanpachi up close

Riesling

Sunchoke Soup/Gougere

Rillettes of Wild Atlantic Salmon Belly topped with salmon eggs served on its skin – the dish as presented

The Salmon Skin as presented

The salmon dish ready to eat

Corton-Charlemagne

Serrano Ham/Uni toast

Grilled Wild Spanish Octopus, Bloomsdale Spinach, Artichoke, Tomato Confit, Basil

Cauliflower Risotto, Uni, Abalone

Maine Lobster basted in smoked butter

Chambolle-Musigny

Cheeks of Wild Virginia Striped Bass, Black Knight Carrots, Nasturtium (no photo of the plated dish)

Wild Head Shot Carolina Black Grouper, Oven Roasted Tahitian Squash, Jurancon

Wild French Turbot, Grilled Lompoc Chanterelles, Black Truffle Butter

Madeira – yes 1875

Cheese Cart

Dessert #1

Dessert #2

Roving Reporter wrote a thank you note to Donato and RR wrote the following:

Wow!! Double Wow!!   Perfect…could not have been better.

We really love that Chef’s Table and then add to it the perfect service from Matthew and Drew and the fabulous menu!!!

We look forward to seeing you often in 2012.

I can’t wait to go back to Providence and I promise full descriptions next time!

 

Providence

It has been way too long since we have been to Providence. This last visit reminded me how much I love Providence and reinforced my feeling that this is a true Michelin 2 star restaurant. Chef Michael Cimarusti is a true artist – his plating and presentations are exquisite. Not only are the plates lovely to look at but they are equally delicious as well as imaginative and executed with precision. The entire Front of the House team is equally first rate from GM Poto Donato, Sommelier Drew Langley and our server Stephen.

BYO Champagne

Bread Service is not an afterthought – terrific bacon brioche and Nori Focaccia

A dish is first presented with Oyster Plant leaves

Then the oysters are presented. On the left is a cucumber reduction with horseradish and yuzu. You are instructed to dip the oyster plant leaf in the cucumber reduction and then sip the rest of the reduction. On the right is a Kumamoto oyster with lime, jalapeno and cilantro – a perfect slurping oyster with just the right amount of “kick.”

On the right  Grilled Monterey Bay Abalone and on the left Grilled Japanese Sword Squid with Chorizo – again inventive plating plus delicious.

This was an ingenious course – absolutely A+. You are presented with what amounts to a hallowed out Oyster Cracker. (John had visions of me making these crackers untill Stephen said they were very labor intensive). Starting from the left, the first cracker contained creamy mozzarella with tiny dice of tomato on top, then smoked char confit topped with a salmon egg and finally scrambled egg topped with caviar. I was in heaven!

Chef Michael labeled this “Caprese Bubble and Tomato Soup.” I am assuming that the “bubble” was made much like the Mojito Raviolo in that it is made with two chemical agents sodium alginate and calcium chloride. Rob of the Hungry in Hogtown blog writes, “sodium alginate, which is derived from seaweed, is a common emulsifier and thickener in the food industry…. When sodium alginate meets calcium chloride, the sodium ions in the alginate are replaced by calcium ions, thus creating a polymer skin that holds everything inside.” The “bubble” combined tomato, mozzarella and basil. The tomato soup was a yellow tomato consomme topped with fennel foam.

BYO White Wine

Big Eye fatty tuna, uni, salmon eggs (ikura) with dashi – 4 ingredients that were a perfect marriage of taste and texture.

Top Shell (sea snail), Matsutake Mushrooms, Goeduck (Giant Clam), Scallions – I adore Japanese food and this was a definite nod to Japanese cuisine. My one thought was who needs a sushi bar?

Uni Canape – on toasted brioche that had been spread with truffle butter was Santa Barbara Uni topped with small discs of preserved summer truffle

We decided to cut the brioche into 3 pieces, creating 3 canapes. I adore uni and this was a definite winner.

“Peel and Eat” – Santa Barbara Spot Prawns cooked over Binchotan Charcoal.

“Binchotan (備長炭) or white charcoal (白炭) is a traditional charcoal of Japan. It dates to the Edo period, when during the Genroku era, a craftsman named Bitchū-ya Chōzaemon (備中屋 長左衛門) began to produce it in Tanabe, Wakayama. The raw material is oak, specifically ubame oak (Quercus phillyraeoides), now the official tree of Wakayama Prefecture. Wakayama continues to be a major producer of high-quality charcoal, with the town of Minabe, Wakayama producing more Binchotan than any other town in Japan.”

“The fineness and high quality of Binchotan are attributed to steaming at high temperatures. Although it is often thought that Binchotan burns hot, it actually burns at a lower temperature than ordinary charcoal but for a longer period of time. Because it does not release smoke or other unpleasant flavors, it is a favorite of unagi and yakitori cooks.”

http://binchotan.web.officelive.com/default.aspx

On the left is Spot Prawn Butter for dipping the prawns (also delicious for bread dipping) and on the right Maldon Salt

Notice the copious amount of roe in the prawn – my favorite part

BYO Red Wine

Just Grilled Wild Japanese King Mackerel, Rosa Bianca Eggplant Puree, Roasted Scarlet Grapes and Braised Fennel – just perfect

Wild John Dory wrapped with Cured Pork Belly, Summer Black Truffle encased in feuille de brik pastry, fresh celery on a mussel and Serrano Ham foam – At this point in the meal, you would think we would be suffering from palate fatigue but Michael’s cuisine is so vibrant that the opposite holds true – you just want more!

Wild Japanese Alfonsino, Sweet Potato Puree, Braised Sweet Potato Cake, Butter/Nori Sauce, Dehydrated Nori Seaweed, Green Onion – I sound like a broken record but this was a spectacular combination of flavors.

This was our last course before cheese. You will notice that there was no meat in our tasting menu as well as no dessert course. Chef Michael devised our menu and he knows our penchant for small courses, generally just fish and no dessert. This menu was created just for us and as such we owe a huge thank you to the chef.

Cheese – I didn’t write down the names.

Enough to say this was a superior meal and we won’t wait so long to return to Providence.

Providence

Providence Saturday night at the Chef’s table with 4 friends was wonderful. Chef Mike is just getting better and better. I have a major problem with a lot of extraneous ingredients on the plate and what distinguishes Providence’s cuisine is the “editing.”

Amuse

From left to right – Mojito Raviolo, Gin and Tonic with Lime and Greyhound Vodka Raviolo – the liquid raviolo is made with two chemical agents sodium alginate and calcium chloride. Rob of the Hungry in Hogtown blog writes, “sodium alginate, which is derived from seaweed, is a common emulsifier and thickener in the food industry…. When sodium alginate meets calcium chloride, the sodium ions in the alginate are replaced by calcium ions, thus creating a polymer skin that holds everything inside.” 

 

First course 

Shima Aji, Shiso, Wasabi oil, lime, microgreens – absolutely delicious - 

 

Second Course

Uni, Cauliflower Mousse, White Truffle, Crispy Buckwheat, Chive – I have said it a million times that I am an absolute sucker for good uni preparations.  This was super with very fresh uni, great texture contrast – smooth mousse and crunchy buckwheat plus truffles – what more could one ask for.

 

Third Course

Hokkaido Scallop, Hachiya Persimmon Puree, Pink Grapefruit, Watermelon Radish, Compressed Cucumber, Wasabi, American Caviar – just a superb combination of flavors. The scallop sat on top of the grapefruit slice adding a citrus note, the persimmon puree was a definite dominant flavor (perfect for me as I love Hachiya persimmon), salty component from the caviar and the scallop was just as fresh as fresh could be.

 

Fourth Course

 From left to right

Squid cooked sous vide with mizuna and slow roasted tomato, squid tendril, Monterey Bay Abalone cooked sous vide, Artichoke, Balsamic, Extra Virgin Olive Oil – 3 perfect pieces of fish with no extraneous ingredients.

Fifth Course

Crispy Sweetbreads, Parsnip Puree, Shimeji Mushrooms, Almond, Truffle Fondue, Maine Lobster, Frisee, Quail Egg – many times meat and fish dishes can be a disaster, but what made this dish work were the unifying accompaniments – the truffle fondue, the quail egg and some of the best shimeji mushrooms I have tasted. I was tempted to ask for an extra side dish of mushrooms!

 

Sixth Course

King Crab Legs wrapped in Kelp,  roasted in salt, Yuzu Kosmo Butter – This took Donato quite some time to prep tableside

 

Donato is adorable.

Crab legs plated with the off the charts Yuzu Kosmo Butter

Seventh Course

Japanese Rouget, Applewood Smoked Bacon, Salsify, Rosemary, Sauce Vin Rouge – Perfectly cooked fish with absolutely glorious crunchy skin and a sauce that would make Escoffier proud.

 

Eighth Course

A-5 Kobe Beef, Musque de Provence Pumpkin, Bone Marrow, Pea tendrils  - I was getting a bit full and saved a tiny piece of Kobe to eat the next day. My neighbor is raising chickens so with freshly laid eggs and a tiny slice of real Kobe, the leftovers were marvelous. I wouldn’t have minded an extra bit of bone marrow.

Certificate of authenticity

 

Ninth Course

Cheese – my favorite were the epoisse spoons

 

Palate Cleanser

 Celery Sorbet – this was the only loser of the night – awful

 

Ninth Course

Walnut Ricotta Torte with Crème Fraiche Ice Cream

 

BYO Wine Selections

 

1997  Soter Beacon Hill Blanc de Blanc, Oregon Sparkling Wine

1998  Corton Charlemagne, Domaine Marius Delarche

1999  Corton Charlemagne, Domaine Marius Delarche 

1983  Hermitage, M. Chapoutier

1998  Crozes-Hermitage, Domaine Combier

2003  Inniskillin Ice Wine, Niagara Peninsula,Canada, Vidal

 

What a wonderful dinner with perfect company, great service and incredible food.

 

 

Providence

Simon Majumdar is one of the great diners of this world and his friend Sybil is equally delightful.  If you haven’t checked out his site, please do here:

http://www.doshermanos.co.uk/

Simon had arranged an incredible dinner at St John’s for me with his pals in London a number of years ago and when I heard he was coming to Los Angeles, I picked what I think is one of LA’s best restaurants, Providence. Michelin obviously agrees with me as they just awarded Providence a second star.

We had booked the chef’s table for the four of us and it is truly a special and unique experience. Many times, Chef Mike brought out the dishes himself like a proud papa and proud he should be. He is a very gifted chef who knows not to “muck” up great ingredients.

Sipping a glass of 1985 Krug, we started the evening with their signature amuse.

Amuse

From left to right – Mojito, Gin and Tonic with Lime and Greyhound Vodka

BYO wine – 1994 Corton Charlemagne

First Course

Shiro Ebi, Cauliflower Mousse, White Truffle, Buckwheat – Donato had sent us an email that the white truffles this year were perfect. Just from the little bit I tasted, I can see what he means. I am craving a dish with scrambled eggs and white truffles that will be on the menu! The menu said ebi, but my notes say Japanese scallops with cauliflower mousseline. In any case, just delicious and the surprise part of the dish was the crunchy buckwheat that added great texture and taste.

 

Second Course -Uni, Konbu-dashi, caviar, crème fraiche, crispy rice cracker – the gelee of konbu with the Santa Barbara uni was unctuous and again Chef Mike added texture with the crispy rice cracker. The caviar added a salty element and the crème fraiche seemed to unify the flavors – a wonderful and sensuous dish.

 

Third Course - Live Santa Barbara Spot Prawns, spot prawn roe, orange oil, vermouth, tarragon – We watched one of the chefs remove the live, squiggly prawn from the fish tank. She was cut open, quickly grilled and served with just a hint of saucing. I made a huge mistake by not picking her up and sucking every last bit of roe – simple and perfect. For the record, Chef Mike chose females for us as he knows I am a huge fan of roe.

 

Fourth Course - Oyster Plant Veloute, Almond, Espellette, Glidden Point Oyster, Frizzy fried shallots – As Simon couldn’t have oysters, Chef Mike used lobster for Simon’s dish and his comment on the dish was fair. With the oyster, it was a much better preparation, but I do have a preference for Mike’s oyster dishes that highlight the oyster in a more pristine state i.e. Kushi Oyster with Tabasco “Caviar”, Tabasco/Horseradish Gelee or Maine Oyster with yuzu lime foam and zest, seaweed nectar and julienne of red onion.

 

Fifth Course -Iwashi – Japanese sardine, basil, saffron, tomato reduction, nicoise olive – this had a south of France feel with each ingredient complimenting each other. The sardine was cooked to perfection and I loved the crispy skin.

 

Sixth Course - Local Abalone cooked with a classic meuniere sauce (browned butter, chopped parsley, and lemon), baby artichokes, garlic, and fava beans. The abalone was perfect with just the right amount of chew. The only off note were the favas that just didn’t seem to complement the abalone.

 

Seventh Course - Salmon, Matsutake Mushroom, Sake foam, Rosemary with bits of crispy salmon skin. The salmon was cooked using the C-Vap system. A google searched produced this information from Jean-Georges.

“The C-Vap, which stands for “Controlled Vapor,” was developed for Kentucky Fried Chicken by the same company that invented its fryers. It’s basically a food warmer that uses warm water vapor—much cooler than steam—to keep KFC’s chicken crispy on the outside but warm and moist on the inside. (Or at least that’s the idea.) But I don’t use it to hold cooked foods, I cook with it.”

“My technique is a lot like sous vide, but without the bag—I can put the ingredients in a skillet or saucepan and stick it right into the machine. Right now in the restaurant, I’m using the C-Vap to cook a sea bass fillet topped with honshimeji mushrooms. The fish stays firm, while the mushroom flavor seeps into the flesh. And it’s ready to serve within 15 minutes or so.”

 

Eighth Course – A5 Kobe rib, Musque de Provence Pumpkin, turnip slices with their greens, Summer truffle Jus. I am always wary of the “this is Kobe beef” line as most of the time you are getting Australian wagyu. However, we were presented with a certificate that this was indeed real Japanese Wagyu from Kagashima prefecture with his nose print and date of birth – 4/09/06. The beef was served simply so that the highlight was the beef itself instead of a cloying, overly rich sauce.

 

  

Ninth Course – Cheese –  Our server chose the cheese. It was an uninspired selection and we had one or two bites. This could have been the result of his inexperience and lack of knowledge about cheese.

 

Tenth Course- Squash “pie”, Curry Ice Cream, Pecan Steussel, Coconut, Balsamic – usually I don’t eat dessert, but I really liked the savory aspect of this dessert.

 

I didn’t taste the lollipop so…..

 

mignardises

This was an excellent meal with excellent company, definitely Michelin 2 star. I think Providence delivers one of the best tasting menus in Los Angeles – it is intelligent, it is focused, it is very ingredient-driven and it is executed with precision. What more could one ask for?

 

 

 

 

 

Providence

Providence is definitely our “go to” restaurant in Los Angeles. At the moment, it is one of the few fine dining restaurants in LA that delivers on every level with incredible cuisine and gracious plus knowledgeable service. There is a passion for fine wine and food that permeates the restaurant and is immediately apparent to the diner.  As always, we just let Chef Michael do his thing.

Amuse – The Cocktail

From left to right – Mojito, Gin and Tonic with Lime and Greyhound Vodka. This is a familiar and satisfying beginning – almost like the start of a FL meal with gougeres and cornets.

 

Kadai (sea bream) sashimi with citrus, olive oil, chives and topped with Petrossian American Golden Imperial caviar (Sacramento Delta) – absolutely superb – exquisite fish handled with restraint

 

Scallop Sashimi with cucumber that had been compressed with orange flower water, a brush of soy, mint and topped with cucumber blossom from Yumin’s garden (the chef de cuisine at Providence) Talk about passion – it is so evident in every single ingredient on the plate and thank you Yumin for your garden.

 

Japanese welks (snails) on a taro root that had been prepared sous vide with sake, buckwheat barley, grated yuzu and little dots of port wine reduction. I never saw a menu and I wasn’t handed a written menu at the end of the evening. Every description of each dish was given verbally. Now imagine a very packed dining room and the patience of Steven, our server to describe each dish in detail – amazing. In terms of the dish itself, it was a textural masterpiece. There was a crunch from the barley, an almost chewy quality to the welks – somewhat like squid and a peppery component – not exactly certain what added that taste.

 

Uni tempura with burdock and a shiso leaf – my notes say Yippeee!!!! This was absolutely sensational – uni with burdock that was coated in tempura batter and deep-fried. Don’t even think about grease, there wasn’t any. We were instructed to wrap the shiso around the uni and eat it like a package. I was in uni heaven.

 

 Matsutake with hamo, a quenelle of loup de mer and scallop, shallots and celery. To the side were two rolled strips of Kobe beef. This is presented as pictured below.

Then a broth made with bonito, chicken and pork was poured over the Matsutake and fish. The kobe strips were to be lightly “cooked” in the broth. Again, this was a dish with restraint – each element added to the whole without a ‘wrong” note.

 

Couldn’t resist taking a picture of just the Kobe,

 

Santa Barbara Spot Prawn with mussels, squid, baby bok choy, tomato confit.

 

The sauce is added table side –  Thai red curry/coconut base. I was fine with this dish, but John can’t handle very spicy food and one taste was enough for him.

 

 This is when I was blown away by the extra mile that Providence and Chef Mike will go to – Mike made another prawn dish for John asap. Santa Barbara Spot Prawns, Chayote Greens, Chanterelles and Shellfish Jus – he loved it.

 

Presentation of the Turbot Roulade –  covered cloches, Spanish olive oil and fresh basil from Chef Mike’s garden.

 

 Cutting of the basil

 

Turbot Roulade with baby basil.  tomato, chorizo, unfiltered Spanish olive oil. Steven said something about “red and shiny,” but he was never able to give me an accurate description of what that meant. Alongside the turbot was a clam fritter. This was the only dish of the night that was a miss for me. The turbot just didn’t have enough flavor and texture for me.

 

Japanese eel, seared foie, porcini mushrooms and truffle crushed potato topped with an egg  - this was an Oh My dish – absolutely perfect.

 

White Peach, Miso ice cream – as usual my ending notes are lousy – a lot of wine is always my excuse.

 

 

Wines at Providence – BYO

 ’00 Serge Mathieu Champagne–nice, clean and delicious.

 ’01 Corton-Charlemagne, Louis Latour–excellent, well aged white burgundy, a real treat.

’95 Chambolle-Musigny, Anne Gros–disappointing…not a lot of life, a bit thin, did not add anything to the meal, too bad

 

What a wonderful meal. Providence is an absolute must for anyone who cares about great food and exceptional service. This is not a restaurant resting on its deserved laurels. It is led by a passionate chef and every aspect of dining here reflects that passion and care.