Archive for the 'New York' Category

Bouley and Chef’s Tasting Menus

I was watching the Victor Borge special on PBS and his daughter mentioned that he had a special trick; at the beginning of every performance he would “exhale” a puff of smoke. If the audience laughed, he knew that he could perform his comedic routines to the fullest. If the audience was unresponsive, he knew that this particular audience was more interested in the music and he would adapt his performance accordingly i.e. less comedy and less of what Victor Borge was rightfully famous for and justifiably named a genius.

This reminded me of a “trick” that Chef David Bouley used to “judge” his clientele. (I got this piece of information from Chef Bouley himself). He would serve them as a first course his  “Homemade Silken Tofu, Trout Roe, Soy Gelee, Shiso, Santa Barbara Uni, Yuzu Sorbet, Apple Foam.” If the clients ate every bite, he knew he had adventurous diners and would adjust his chef’s tasting menu accordingly. If, on the other hand, they left the dish barely eaten, he would alter his special chef’s tasting menu to a safer route. Needless to say, we belonged to the former group.

To give you some idea of Bouley’s cuisine, below is a representative sample of some of his dishes from various meals in 2010.

Typical Canapes:

Corn Tuile filled with corn and dusted with nutmeg, Sashimi of yellowtail in a brik cone topped with soy gelee and micro greens, a “taco” filled with avocado, tomato and basil, baby sweet corn cannoli, parmiagiano “sandwich” and a tuile of baby yellowtail tartar.

Malibu sea urchin with sea trout roe, soy milk gelee, soy sauce gelee, shaved shiso, yuzu sorbet and yuzu gelee with apple foam. This is just a great dish – one of the best preparations of uni I have had anywhere. “I wanted to go on eating it forever.”

On a bed of jasmine rice, small pieces of “Japanese Xmas Tree Leaf”, 2 thick slabs of Seared Toro from Spain and topped by a Kumamoto Oyster. This was another spectacular dish with such an extraordinary balance of texture and flavor. The Toro was fatty and unctuous and I hated having finished it.

Skate with tiny diced capers to the side, topped with 24 hour tomatoes, ringed with a bit of truffle oil and a line of yellow powder which was camonile flowers. This had a decidedly Basque feel and again the over-used word perfect.

Young garlic soup with a coconut base, bits of ginger in which were Florida shrimp poached in wine and Sauteed New Zealand Langoustines. An Organic Hen Egg had been dropped in the soup so that the warm soup “cooked” the egg . This was very rich and equally delicious.

Line caught cod fish with tomato/green apple gelee, cucumber sorbet, fresh wasabi, olives and a touch of vanilla dust. This dish was a study in temperature as well as sweet/sour contrast. The cold sorbet with the cod, the bite of the wasabi with the vanilla added up to a visually, textural, hot/cold contrast.

Roasted Sturgeon, Oscetra Caviar, Shallots, Chives on Jasmine Rice served with Grey Goose Vodka sauce. This was an A+ and one of the best dishes I have ever had.  The whimsy of the dish – sturgeon, caviar and vodka  – an ode to Russia. The flavor was mind-blowing and the sturgeon cooked perfectly.

Poached Lobster from Massachusetts with a light Beurre Blanc served with Watermelon Glazed with Ginger, Ox Heart Tomato Sorbet and Organic Avocado Crabmeat Roll and Tomato water. A visually stunning dish that was as delicious as it looked.

Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras with Muscat Grape, Apple/Rosemary Puree with Mango caviar and Armagnac Sauce. Absolutely superb and the mango caviar is an important and delicious element in the foie gras dish.

The loin and rack of Organic Baby Lamb from Cooperstown and the loin and rack of pork from a small farm near Bouley’s home in Connecticut on top of hand-made fettuchini with serrano ham, a sauce of simple jus, mushrooms and on the side fingerling potato puree.

New Zealand Red Axis Venison crusted in black truffles with baby Brussel sprouts, Fingerling potatoes, White salsify, Red Delicious Apple Puree with Port wine and Asian Celery Puree with Balsamic Vinegar —  A beautiful rectangular approximately 2″ piece of meat that was rare, juicy and tender. The apple puree with port wine was equally delicious.

Moral of the story – be the adventurous diner.

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Mary’s Fish Camp – Manhattan

I am a fried clam with the bellies nutcase. Growing up in Boston, I took this treat for granted as I could get them whenever I wanted. Worst case scenario was clam strips at Howard Johnson’s, a 5 cent MTA ride away. Living on the West Coast, fried clams with the bellies is just not a possibility unless I make them myself.

http://lizziee.wordpress.com/category/recipe/fried-clams-at-home/

So every trip back East must include a restaurant serving fried clams. On our last trip to New York, we, of course, went to Mary’s Fish Camp. They open at noon and we were there at 11:55, ready and waiting.

marys-oysters

A Dozen Malpeque Oysters with Blush Mignonette – good, but at Neptune Oyster in Boston you get a choice of at least 9 different types of oysters from both the East and West Coast


marys-oysters-po-boy

Fish Camp Oyster Po Boy – John liked this but thought Casamento’s in New Orleans was much better.

 

marys-clams1

Fried Clam Roll with Celery Root Remoulade – good, but I actually prefer the fried clams at Neptune Oyster in Boston 


neptune-first-fried-clams1

1/2 order of Neptune’s clams – we always order the clams as a split so the second split is as hot as the first split.

Corton- Manhattan

“What does the determined restaurateur do when he wants to give a well-known, long-lived property a new identity? Change the name, radically reinvent the décor, and hire a buzzy new chef. Drew Nieporent has done all of the above to Montrachet, the restaurant he opened in 1985, when Tribeca was a backwater and opening chef David Bouley was unknown. Corton, like Montrachet, refers to a Côte de Beaune grand cru, and its wine list retains its predecessor’s Burgundian focus. The food will still be modern French, too, as interpreted by Paul Liebrandt, a chef who garnered a cult following (and a sometimes culinarily controversial rep) at Atlas and Gilt. His $76 three-course prix fixe offers dishes like crispy amadai with garlic, Serrano ham, and young coconut juice, and desserts by Robert Truitt, late of Room 4 Dessert and El Bulli. At once intimate and modern, the new design incorporates a narrow window providing a glimpse of the action in the reinvigorated kitchen.” — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

http://nymag.com/listings/restaurant/corton/

We were lucky to go to Corton with Cathy, Drew Nieporent’s assistant. Drew is not missing in action at Corton; he is there every night, being the consummate host.

Elizabeth Harcourt did an excellent job as sommelier

 

I must say my notes are fair at best and sometime has passed since this meal. I hope I don’t do a complete injustice to this meal.

 

Gougeres and Green Olive Sponge

 

Sensational seaweed butter

 

Salted Cod Soup with Beausoleil Oyster and Broccoli Cream – excellent and well-balanced

 

Uni, Konbu Gelee, Cauliflower Cream – absolutely stupendous. The Konbu gelee with the uni was superb and a few drops of jalapeno oil added just enough heat to excite the palate

 

 

Kampachi, Foie Gras Chantilly, Cucumber Melon, Miso, Toasted brioche, red ribbon sorrel, balsamic – perfectly cooked fish with well-balanced flavors

 

 Amadai, Black Garlic, Serrano Ham, Citrus-Coconut Broth – this was actually two dishes in one. The fish dish had a beautiful clove of black garlic on the rim of the plate – “Black garlic is tender like roast garlic with undertones of malt and molasses, and an overall sweet garlicky flavor and none of the acrid bite of raw garlic.” (from Ideas in Food) Also on the plate was a citrus, coconut jus parsley puree and lime leaf for an aromatic component.

In a side dish was light as air potato gnocchi, baby bok choy and Serrano ham

 

 

Elysian Fields Lamb Loin, Braised Neck, Ras el Hanout, Chocolate Mint Jus, Lamb belly rillete – The lamb was cooked perfectly and was accompanied by date with lemon confit, baby eggplant, minced eggplant and a chocolate mint jus (Chocolate mint refers to an herb, specifically a hybrid mint plant, that tastes and especially smells like a combination of mint and chocolate.)

 

The side dish of lamb rilette sat on a bed of spiced yogurt.

 

“Cheese and Crackers” – Selles-Sur-Cher (goat cheese), Sour Cherry Pate de fruit, Chickpea Cracker, Celery root puree, Vanilla bourbon reduction

 

White Sesame Crème, Lemon, Huckleberry, Salted Toffee

 

Gianduja Palette, Yuzu, Coconut

 

Mignardises

Generally I felt ther dessert part of the menu was the weakest portion of the meal. There just didn’t seem to be the same finesse or layering of flavor. It was almost as if there was a disconnect between the savory and sweet portion of the menu.

Service was exceptional. This was an excellent meal and I only hope that the economy doesn’t tank too much further and that diners are willing to support Corton. 

 

Jean Georges – Manhattan

JG has always been one of my most favorite places for lunch in New York. I love the room, the sun streaming in the windows and the quiet luxurious sense of the room. I just don’t understand what has happened to the food – it is as if the chef de cuisine is not tasting his sauces. Where Le Bernardin excelled at every single sauce, JG barely managed to get one right.

Amuse

Salmon sashimi with citrus mignonette – way too much citrus

Crimini beignet with cheddar – bland

Warm spiced pear cider with foam – the best of the three

 

Sea Trout Sashimi draped in trout eggs, crispy trout skin, lemon foam, dill puree, horseradish – John’s comment was that this was way too citrusy

 

Yellow Fin Tuna Ribbons, Avocado Puree, Spicy radish, Chili Oil, Ginger marinade – the saucing was added tableside and I found that the tuna was drowned out by the saucing which added a very unpleasant acidic note.

 

Santa Barbara Uni, Yuzu Vinaigrette on Black bread – again there was an off balance of flavor as there was an overabundance of yuzu vinaigrette that provided too much of a citrus component

 

Young garlic soup with thyme and frogs legs – John thought this was excellent

 

Foie Gras Brulee, spiced fig jam and toasted brioche – normally the sweet component is somewhat muted – not this time

 

Parmesan crusted confit leg of chicken, white asparagus, basil and lemon butter – again the lemon was way too dominant

 

Mignardises

I just don’t understand what has happened to Jean Georges. For some reason, the flavor balance is off – either way too much citrus or too much acidity.

Le Bernardin

Le Bernardin absolutely delivered a 3 star meal. This is not bells and whistles cuisine, but every single dish delivered delicious, bright flavors that was executed perfectly. Many of the sauces were added table side and you could see the care and attention given to every detail. This is not cuisine of a 100 ingredients with the hope that something works. This is precise edited cuisine that shows an intelligent understanding of what constitutes a great tasting menu.

The wine pairings by sommelier, Aldo Sohm was also spot on.

I wrote down one of Aldo’s sayings “A dead fish floats with the river.” What he meant was that he wants to go against the tide and do the unexpected. This was his way of explaining why he chose the wines for the pairings. 

The service was equally 3 star, not hovering, but just always “there” when we needed something. 

Basically, I am going to let the photos tell the story.

Amuse – Tuna Tartare

 

Thinly pounded smoked salmon carpaccio; toasted brioche brushed with creme fraiche and caviar

Wine pairing: Shizuku – Divine Droplets, Junmai Daigginjo Sake

 

Kindai Maguro – (First sustainably raised Japanese Blue Fin Tuna in the world) Seared Blue Fin; Parmesan Crisp and Sun-Dried Tomato; Nicoise puree, black olive oil, micro basil

Nicoise puree being added

Final dish

Wine pairing: Godello – Vina Godeval, Valdeorras 2006

 

Ultra Rare Charred Scallops a la plancha; Braised Morels and Chanterelles, Mushroom Jus Hollandaise style, capers, cornichons

Mushroom jus being added

Final dish

Wine pairing: Chablis 1er Cru vaillons, Daniel – Etienne Defaix 2000

 

Baked Lobster; Asparagus, Sauce Gribiche with Tarragon

Sauce Gribiche added table side

Wine pairing: Blaufrankisch “Brandkraften” Wenzel, Neusiedlersee-Hugelland, Austria 2002

 

Escolar- White tuna poached in extra virgin olive oil; sea beans and potato crisps; light red wine bearnaise

Red Wine Bearnaise added

Wine pairing: Nuits saint-georges, Vieilles Vignes,m Daniel Rion 2003

Crispy Black Bass; braised celery; Iberico Ham, Green Peppercorn sauce

Green peppercorn sauce added

Wine pairing: Rioja, Reserve ‘Vina Ardanza’, La Rioja Alta 2000

 

Fourme d’Ambert, Crispy bacon soy caramel, Gingershap tuile, Curry sauce, Lemongrass (not pictured)

Wine pairing: L’Etoile, Savagnin, Domaine de Montbourgeau, Jura 2000

 

Dark Amedei Chocolate ganache, Toasted baguette, Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Maldon sea salt

Wine pairing: Muskat Ottonel Trockenbeerenauselese No 4 – Aloise Kracher, Austria 2002

 

An excellent meal in every way.

Per Se

 

Time Warner Cente

10 Columbus Circle, 4th Floor
New York, NY 10019
212.823.9335
http://www.perseny.com

Executive Chef/Owner: Thomas Keller
Chef de Cuisine: Johnathan Benno
Sommelier: Paul Roberts
Pastry Chef: Sebastien Rouxel
Private Dining Chef: Joshua Schwartz 

Every table was full Friday night  at Per Se, including the 10 seat private dining room. It appeared that 1/3 of the tables were designated as one seating only and 2/3’s were set aside for 2 turns.  I asked Michael (one of my favorite waiters from FL who is now at Per Se) how many first timers and he said most of the room. We were seated by the window at the table next to the fireplace  on the PDR side.

As always, we never look at a menu and approached Per Se the same way we approach FL with a “we are ready for anything and everything.”

We were treated to the same type of menu as we get at FL -2 preparations at each course. We have developed the over/under method — my husband and I eat half of each course, he passes under, I pass over, for a tasting of the second half.

The most significant difference between Yountville and New York is that Per Se is a designed space with elegant detailing while home base in Yountville is country simple. The room “works” because everyone has been trained to make it work. There is no noise, no fumbling, no bumbling. The sound level is hushed, though not a temple, because there is more than ample space between tables.

This is refined food in a superb space, but it is not formal, fussy or pretentious. It is Thomas Keller’s food done perfectly and served perfectly.

The biggest difference for us between FL and Per Se is that there is no garden to visit on breaks…down in the elevator, up on the escalator…watching careening taxis is not as much fun as sitting in the garden and peeking in the kitchen windows. I wanted to have a terrace installed cantilevered out from the dining room so I could just wander out over Columbus Circle.

No Photo

Gougeres



Cornets of Atlantic Salmon Tartar with red onion creme fraiche

SOUP

Parsnip Apple soup with cinnamon toast croutons

A bowl containing just the small bits of apple and the tiny croutons are presented to the diner. The actual soup is poured tableside.

Butternut Squash soup with diced Perigord truffles

The presentation is similar to the parsnip soup. Tiny bits of pungent truffles covered the bottom of the bowl and then a silky, rich “bursting with fall” butternut squash soup poured on top.

CAVIAR

Oysters and Pearls


Cauliflower Panna Cotta and Itanian Oscetra Caviar

Benno has these preparations nailed. There is absolutely no difference between the FL and Per Se re the signature dishes.
FISH CANAPE

Sable Fish with Crème Fraiche, Smoked salmon and mache

Little bits of the smoked salmon was mixed with the sable fish and sat atop the creme fraiche sauce. The smoked salmon was an important component as it moved the dish from bland to sparkling.
Hamachi Sashimi with Daikon

My thought was who needs to go to Masa, also in Time Warner when you can have such perfect sashimi at Per Se.
TRUFFLES

Coddled Hen Egg with Truffle Beurre Noisette and Brioche “soldiers”

The soft runny yolk with the truffle beurre nosiette is a match made in heaven. Again, sharing is sometimes very hard.
White Truffle Custard with a ragout of Perigord Truffles with Veal Stock served in an egg shell
Another FL classic, again perfectly executed.
MEAT CANAPE

Confit of Four Story Hills Farm Veal Tongue, Heirloom Tomato Relish and Young Cilantro Shoots

This was off the charts perfect. The Veal Tongue melted in your mouth – it was an extraordinary taste, which was highlighted by the tomato relish.
Pork and Beans

I know there is a lot of controversy re Keller’s theory of small portions leaving you wanting more. But the tongue dish and this pork dish was a lesson in a chef’s restraint and a diner’s longing for three more portions.
SALAD

Heirloom beets, Pickled baby carrots, Pearl Onions, Braised Radishes and Truffle Vinaigrette

These vegetables were singing – I have sometimes been disappointed by the salad course, but not this one.
Hawaiian Hearts of Palm with a Confit of Ruby Red Grapefruit, Garden Mache and Black truffle Coulis

The grapefruit was essential to this dish as well as the coulis.
WHITE TRUFFLES
 

Carnaroli Risotto Biologico with White Truffles from Alba

 

This was just sinful, toothsome risotto with enough white truffles, shaved tableside from their special humidor to feed at least 3 people.

Hand-cut Tagliatelle with an equally obscene amount of white truffles shaved Tableside
Beurre Noisette was added to both tableside.
FISH (BOTH)


Striped Bass Shank with Apple “Melon balls with Brussel Sprouts and Apple Mignonette
The apples were a brillant addition. The Bass was cooked to perfection. The Bass was first presented whole and then a small piece of the fish was served. I asked what happened to the rest of the bass and was told only the choicest piece is served – the rest is used in stock.
FISH 2
Scottish Prawns (Langoustines) “cuit sous vide” with Braised Dill, Fennel and a Confit of Grapefruit
This was heads and shoulders above any langoustine I have had in the States. Per Se and ADNY are using the same Scottish purveyor for their langoustines and game birds and the quality of both is extraordinary. I wish I could convey how extraordinary the taste of these langoustines were – one of the finest langoustine dishes I have had anywhere.
Butter Poached Nova Scotia Lobster with Chestnut Puree, Celery Root Fondant and Cutting Celery Salad

At this point in the meal a break was desperately needed. This is when I missed FL the most. I went down the far elevator to take a much needed break. I decided to quickly find the closest bathroom. My husband stayed outside and I went on a search. Yippee – a door right by the 3rd floor elevator. Under no circumstances should anyone do this. For some reason, I ended up in the inner bowels of Time Warner. Electrical equipment everywhere and there was no way to get out – every door to civilization was locked. I had visions of being found 2 months later – a skeleton whose last meal was at least a good one. Finally and frantically running through corridor after corridor, I found a door that worked. There was a guard, with gun in hand, asking me how I got there. I said I didn’t have a clue, but all I wanted to do was finish my meal at Per Se. I must have looked desperate enough for I was shown to the mall.
FOIE GRAS (BOTH)

Whole Foie Gras cooked sous vide in Sauterne (’86 Ramonet) and Vanilla served with heirloom radish

This was the only miss of the night. When you cut into the foie, it was raw with bloody strings – veins. I asked a chef I trust and admire what happened. He felt from my description that the foie was not prepped properly. The next night, Brad, the sommelier at Bouley, mentioned that they are having trouble with their foie. He said that the geese/ducks were being force-fed too much, too quickly and as a result the foie didn’t stay intact.
MEAT

Breast of Wild Scottish Grouse “rotie a la broche” – Pommes Sarladaises (cooked in duck fat) and Slow Baked Heirloom beets

OH MY! An A+ dish. I am ready to marry this Scottish purveyor. The grouse was perfect – like nothing I have ever tasted.
Snake River Farms Calotte de Boeuf Grille with Braised Oxtail en Crepinette and Cipollini Onion Stuffed with Bone Marrow Farci.

CHEESE

Tomme Du Berger (sheep cheese) served with Prune Bread Pudding and Sicilian Pistachio Vinaigrette

OK, but nothing to write home about.
Fondue of Boerenkaase Gouda with a tasting of Heirloom Apples

A definite Keller type of whimsical dish. Tiny cubes of apple are presented on toothpicks. You then dip the apple in the gouda fondue – orginal and tasty.
SORBET

Almond Milk Foam, Banana Sorbet, Cilantro Shoots with Carolina-Puffed Rice Crispies
Muscovado Sorbet, Root Beer Foam, “Genoise au Caramel”

DESSERT

Coffee & Donuts, sans Coffee

CHOCOLATE DESSERT

2 chocolate desserts – I had stopped writing at this point and don’t have a clue what they were. Delicious, but we were completed stuffed like balloons.
Conclusion: There is no doubt in my mind that this was a four star meal. The service was extraordinary, the pacing perfect and all but the foie dish was excellent. After the meal, I saw Chef Benno in the kitchen. My one comment to him was, “You are kicking a….!”

Mai House

Mai House is one of Drew Niporent [Myriad Restaurant Group] restaurants. We were with a friend of the house, so obviously she was in charge of ordering.

We started with a special cocktail – Tiger Tails – pepper vodka, passionfruit purée, and a pickled Thai chile

Then we basically ate the menu.

Chinese Sausage Summer roll in rice paper

 

Hot Mushrooms Spring Rollls – Chanterelles, Shitakes, Wood Mushrooms, Soy Cham Sauce

 

Salt and Pepper Cuttlefish – Sweet and Sour Kiwi sauce

 

Raw Artichoke Salad – Rau Ram, herbs

 

Spicy Beef and Pomelo Salad – Rau Mam Herb, Chilies, Lime

 

BBQ Quail, Sticky Rice, Kaffir Lime, Crispy Shallots

 

Clay Pot Organic Chicken, Quail eggs, Lemongrass, Ginger, Chilies

 

Braised Berkshire Pork Belly, Pickled Red cabbage, Coconut Juice

 

Thin Sliced Sizzling Lemongrass Skirt Steak Pandan Scented Sweet Onion

 

A special of striped bass

 

Stir Fry Saigon Noodles, Bean Curd, Bean spouts, Garlic Chives

Dessert –

pandan panna cotta with a layer of curry gelée on top

 

Sorbets

An excellent meal.


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