BreadBar – Hatchi Series

I loved it when Chef Rugelio cooked a special dinner for us at Breadbar and then Chef Rugelio arranged for  Chef Noriyuki Sugi to cook a special dinner for us. When I heard that Chef Sugi would be consulting on a series of Hitachi dinners at Breadbar in Century City, I made a reservation immediately!  Little did I know at the time that I would know one of the main “players.”

The guest chef was Michael Voltaggio. We have tasted his talents at Bazaar, but have yet to taste his revamped menu as executive chef at The Dining Room at The Langham in Pasadena. I did meet his mother and father (who are wonderful) and can’t wait to watch Bravo’s Top Chef when Michael and his brother, Bryan go against each other on Season 6 Top Chef, premiering Wednesday, August 19.

To see Michael’s bio go to:

http://www.chefdb.com/nm/20165?r=7&track=rss

When I made the reservation I didn’t know that my son, David would be doing the wine pairings and working the event. What an absolute treat and pleasure and to say I was one proud mommy is a massive understatement. Our wine pairings were not as listed on the menu as David had brought wine from our cellar so we had the unique experience of some very special wines.

David

 

Chef Michael Voltaggio

 

Gosset champagne to start

 

Artichokes “Barigoule” 

Salmon Belly, Philadelphia Cheese, Smoked Salmon Roe – this was sensational – fatty salmon belly, popping salmon roe, the “blobs” were artichoke liquid that had been strained and jellied, artichoke heart with stem and “flakes” of cream cheese formed with liquid nitrogen.

The reason that I am able to accurately describe these dishes is thanks to Edwin – Michael’s sous chef. He is talented, knowledgeable and just a wonderful guy.

Edwin

 

White wine with the Tomato Tartare

 

Japanese Tomato Tartare 

Green Almonds, Parmesan “Overeasy”, Tapenade Powders, Basil – This brief description doesn’t do justice to this dish – absolutely extraordinary. What appears to be a poached egg on top is not an egg at all. The parmesan is cooked in water, sits for 24 hours and then mixed with LO2A. (I hope I got this right, Edwin!) 

 

The yellow color is from yellow tomato coulis – clever plus delicious.

 

Bandol with the Hamachi

 

 Hamachi Crudo 

Smoked Egg Yolk, Sea Sponge, Watermelon, Wild Rice – Another complete winner. Sushi grade hamachi was perched on a watermelon rectangle that looked exactly like tuna sashimi. The sea sponge was actually Dashi broth (70% cold – 30% hot), watermelon gelatin compressed with soy sauce then added, the egg was smoked at 63 degrees celsius for 90 minutes and finally wild rice that added a perfect textural component of crunch. (I hope I am giving accurate descriptions of these dishes and any mistakes are mine not Edwin’s. I need to add, he was very patient with me at the height of service.)

Edwin plating

 

Sherry for the Sweetbreads (regular pairing)

 

 Veal Sweetbread 

Poached Egg, Pea Consomme, Coffee-Cardamom Soil –  The sweetbreads were excellent and the coffee-cardamom “soil” a perfect seasoning. I did find the egg a touch underdone – the yolk was perfect, but the white was too loose and runny.

The pea consomme was added tableside

 

Deus Beer with the chicken (regular pairing)

 

 Crispy Chicken Thigh 

Cuttlefish, Green Garlic, Sweet and Sour Mushrooms- this was an interesting take on surf and turf  - a piece of crispy chicken thigh was the base, thin slices of cuttlefish were perched on top, a green garlic foam covered the cuttlefish. The sweet and sour element , I am guessing, is the orange blob on the left and on the right are the  Hon Shimeji mushrooms.

 

 Red Wine for the Wagyu

 

Wagyu Beef 

Short Rib, Saul’s Pastrami, Tamarind, Broccoli Textures, Horseradish “Styrofoam” – Saul’s Pastrami is Saul Copperstein’s – Managing Director of Business Development for SBE Entertainment Group.  It is made by trimming the external fat before the meat is brined.  The brine is made from:  water, salt, brown sugar, pink salt, black pepper, mustard seeds, cinnamon, cloves, juniper berries, all spice berries, bay leaves, ground ginger, coriander seed, pimentone and garlic powder. The pastrami is not put in ice after smoking to get to 90 degrees F, rather it is cold smoked over ice so that the temperature during the smoking never exceeds 90 degrees F. The immersion circulator process is 48 hours. The “styrofoam” is made from horseradish stock that is strained, whisked with egg white powder, then gelatin with seaweed mixed in so a meringue is formed. Also on the plate was broccoli puree plus a take on crispy broccoli (Edwin explained the process, but I have had quite a bit of wine so…….) This was a very, very rich dish and I ended up taken half of it home.

 

Wine for the desserts (regular pairing)

 

 Miso Cake  Jasmine “Rice Cream”, Strawberry, Yuzu – The strawberries and rice cream were the standouts in this dish. Edwin explained that the cream was yogurt, dried coconut, Greek yogurt and agar agar.

 

 Fool’s Gold 

 Hazelnut Praline, Salty Caramel, Nitro Coffee Mousse - 

 

I started dinner at 6:00 (as soon as they opened) and left around 12:00. Needless to say, I had a wonderful time, met wonderful people and was introduced to the contemporary cuisine of Michael Voltaggio. I can’t wait to try his food at The Langham in Pasadena.

Takao – Brentwood

Takao is our neighborhood sushi bar. We just do omakase – chef’s choice. I will let the photos tell the “story.”

 

Appetizer Plate

Home-made Egg Pudding with caviar

Jellied Hamo White Fish – Nikogori

Giant Clam with Miso sauce

Natto with Cubes of Tuna, Nori Strips, Green Onion

Raw Scallop and Uni, Wasabi, Nori Wrap

The uni/scallop was to be eaten wrapped up

 

Finely chopped (tataki) sardine, Miso, Ginger, Spring Onion – Namero

 

Grilled Spanish Mackerel, Daikon, Radish, Pickled Ginger

Soup Bowl

Nabe (steampot) of Hamo Fish with Burdock and Egg “Yanagawa” Style

Close-up Of Hamo

Uni Squid Shiso handroll

Salmon Skill Roll (not pictured)

Toro Sushi

Toro Tataki Roll

 

This is not Urasawa, but for a neighborhood sushi bar, it is excellent.

Caviar, Blinis, Krug

We celebrated our anniversary with a champagne and caviar tasting at home.

First up was making the blini batter:

Blini Batter after rising for 2 hours 

Blini Batter with Egg White added

 

Krug Champagne

3 kinds of caviar

 

Blini cooking

 

Blini plated with Caviar and Creme Fraiche

 

 I also decided to serve the caviar with toast points, HB egg whites, HB egg yolks and minced onions.

Toast point – half-eaten

 

 

RECIPE FOR BLINI BATTER

Martha Stewart’s Blinis

1 package of active dry yeast

1/2 cup warm water

1 cup milk

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

3 eggs separated

1/2 teaspoon salt

Pinch of sugar

6 tablespoons melted unsalted butter

 

Additional clarified butter for cooking

 

Proof the yeast in warm water and a pinch of sugar for 15 minutes

Put the yeast mixture, milk, flour, egg yolks, salt and melted butter in a blender or food processor. Blend at high speed for 40 seconds. Turn the machine off, scrape down the sides of the container, then blend for another few seconds. Pour the batter into a bowl that is large enough to accomodate the rising. Cover loosely and set in a warm place to rise for 1 1/2 to 2 hours.  Do not let the batter rise much longer or the blini will taste overfermented.

At cooking time, beat the egg whites until stiff.  Fold them into the batter.

Heat a heavy skillet or griddle. Brush with melted clarified butter. Drop batter by teaspooonfuls onto the hot griddle. Turn the blini when the first side is lightly browned and cook briefly on the second side.  I like to cook this to order at our bar.

 

The blini batter will hold overnight.

My husband’s breakfast.

Riva – Santa Monica

Riva has changed their menu for dinner and is now featuring Stuzzuchini – Italian tapas. Pizza is no longer on the dinner menu, except for Sunday, Monday and Tuesday. It is on the lunch menu, but unfortunately none of their fabulous crudo is offered at lunch. This was a lunch, but next time it will be dinner.

Dinner menu:

http://rivarestaurantla.com/images/riva_newmenu.jpg 

 

Tuna Meatballs, Tomato Sauce – this was to be served with pasta, but we asked for just the meatballs. Excellent.

 

Hand-cut Beef Tartare, Chives, Shallots – This was superb and I can’t wait to try it with the bacon sabayon at dinner.

 

Molto Maiale – sausage, bacon, meatballs, pancetta, caramelized onion, tomato, cheese as an addition – always delicious

 

Milk Chocolate Cremux, Brown Butter ganache,  Coconut Sorbet, Pecans

Riva is such a comfortable restaurant with no pretensions –  just market-driven food, expertly prepared.

Redd – Yountville

We have had hit and miss experiences at Redd with the biggest miss being at brunch. But it is a perfect spot for lunch, particularly before a French laundry dinner.

Wine – Schramberg Blanc de Blanc

 

Sashimi of hamachi, sticky rice, edamame, lime ginger sauce – this is always excellent and a perfect beginning

 

Yellowfin tuna and hamachi tartare, avocado, puffed Jasmine rice, Jasmine Asian pear, chili oil, whole grain mustard vinaigrette, micro cilantro – even though this is a duplication of an ingredient – the hamachi, it is a completely different flavor profile. Another excellent course and the crunch from the rice a wonderful textural contrast.

 

Shrimp salad, butter lettuce, avocado, bacon, caesar dressing – this is a half order! What a surprise dish – absolutely delicious

 

Chilled Corn soup with basil oil – Our server was excellent. I had added this as a last moment thought and expected it before the salad. He decided to serve it after the salad as he said it was very rich. This is a 1/4 portion. In any case, it was like eating sweet corn ice cream – a perfect ending to a delightful lunch.

 

Smoked salmon and cheese panini served with the soup – nice

Redd is back on track and definitely recommended.