Archive for November, 2008

An Incredible Food Blog and Book

This obsession with food and dining has some wonderful benefits. I have been fortunate to meet some extraordinary people. One of them is a remarkable man, Simon  Majumdar. Normally, my husband has an aversion to my “foodie” friends and will think of a dozen reasons to avoid my outings. However, he and Simon became fast friends and even organized their own outing to eat hot dogs and burgers at my husband’s favorite stand, Marty’s in West Los Angeles. Simon is knowledgeable, witty, personable, and can wax poetic about the humblest street food to the ultimate haute cuisine dining experience.

I do have a link to his site and highly recommend it.

http://www.doshermanos.co.uk/

Simon was also generous in his comments re this site and recommended it as one of the 10 best food blogs. See below:

http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/food_and_drink/article5238429.ece

He has just finished writing a book called Eat My Globe: One Year to Go Everywhere and Eat Everything.

US

http://www.amazon.com/Eat-My-Globe-Everywhere-Everything/dp/1416576029/ref=cm_lmf_tit_11

UK

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Eat-My-Globe-Everywhere-Everything/dp/1416576029/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1226706772&sr=8-1

I thank Simon for his acumen, his passion but most importantly for his friendship. However, my endorsement of Simon’s blog and “I can’t wait for his book” doesn’t reflect our friendship. Dining with Simon is a lesson for us all. He knows what he is talking about plus he brings honesty, intelligence and graciousness to those who work so hard in the restaurant industry.

 

 

Mako

We were suppose to have dinner at Comme Ca, but without going into detail, we left. Now it is Saturday night in Los Angeles and we have no reservations. We called Mako and Lisa couldn’t have been nicer or more accommodating. “Come on over; I can’t give you your favorite table by the window, but you are always welcome.”

We have known Mako and Lisa for years – Lisa was front of the house at Chinois and Mako was chef de cuisine. 

Mako has since opened two new restaurants – Luau in Beverly Hills and Robata-Ya on Sawtelle. He starts off at Mako and then checks in at Luau and sometimes finishes the evening at Robata-Ya.

We BYO’d our own wine.

mako-krug

Always nice to start off with Krug Champagne.

 

mako-oysters

Crispy Oysters, minced tomatoes, black olives, basil – the oysters were deep-fried, light as air and delicious.

 

mako-hamachi

Yellowtail sashimi, yuzu sesame dressing – I really liked the addition of the vegetable rice roll with the sashimi. The sauce was delicious and the yellowtail as good as it gets.

 

mako-white

The Chateau Guiraud white with the above course was a match made in heaven.

 

mako-uni

Diver Scallops and Baked Uni, Sea Urchin sauce – absolutely perfect

 

At this point Mako made the rounds of the dining room and left to go to Luau. Unfortunately, the next dish was a disaster.

mako-duck

Peking Duck, Crepes, Julienne Vegetables, Homemade Miso – the duck was so dry that it was inedible. The crepes were cold.

mako-accompaniments-to-duck

The accompaniments to the duck – the nuts were perfect.

 

As a comparison the first photo is the Peking duck we had at Bernard’s in Chestnut Hill, Mass and the second photo is Chinois’s Peking duck.

bernards-dusck

 

chinois-duck1

chinois-bao

Chinois serves their duck with a bao that I prefer over the crepes, although the crepes at Bernard’s were fine as they were hot.

 

mako-red

Red wine with the duck

 

When Mako is expediting, the kitchen is faultless. To Lisa’s credit we were not charged for the duck, but I have to wonder if Mako’s cuisine suffers when he is not there.

Fried Clams at Home

I am a nut case for fried clams with the belles. Living in Los Angeles, it is almost impossible to find decent fried clams. But, if you are having a major craving, I suggest you contact Ipswich Fish Market. It isn’t cheap, but you get a clam frying kit that actually works.

http://www.ipswichfishmarket.com/clams.aspx

From their site:

Clam Frying Kit with “The Clam Box” Secret Recipe

“We think the best fried clams on earth are deep-fried at the Clam Box restaurant, located on route 1A in Ipswich, Massachusetts. Now you can make these delicious fried clams at home – anytime – with the Clam Box secret recipe! We’ve created a Clam Frying Kit including a corn flour mix, a plastic sifter, tartar sauce and one quart container of our own Ipswich Shellfish shucked clams. It’s easy. Simply place the clams in evaporated milk, drain, dredge in the secret corn flour mix and deep fry in vegetable oil. Serve hot and dip the delicate little morsels into tartar sauce. So good!”

CLAM FRYING KIT WITH 1 QUART SHUCKED CLAMS

delivered for $129.95

CLAM FRYING KIT WITH 2 QUARTS SHUCKED CLAMS

delivered for $189.95

CLAM FRYING KIT WITH 4 QUARTS SHUCKED CLAMS

delivered for $289.95

The only trick to making decent fried clams is to fry a small amount at a time. If you don’t, you get a clumpy mess.

fried-clams-at-home

 Fried Clams with the bellies at Home!

 

Totoraku

I now understand one of the reasons why Kaz has always kept his “restaurant” a secret club. Now that it has been discovered and so many bloggers rush to try it out, take pictures and then pile on their “take”, the experience at Totoraku is somehow lost in a jumble of critiques. Totoraku is not an exclusive club, but Kaz is very sensitive to the fact that not everyone will love it. Therefore, once you have come with a regular and obviously enjoy what he is doing, you are more than welcome to return.

Yes, it is expensive. Yes, it is bare bones decor. Yes, it is essentially just beef. But, it is fun and unique and something you share with good friends. It is not Providence, it is not Urasawa, it is not Spago, it is not Melisse, it is not Sona. You eat what Kaz “cooks” and Ashima, his wife so aptly serves. But, if you just enjoy yourself, let Kaz do his thing and bring good wine, you will have a wonderful time.

A new to me decor 

display-at-totoraku

Dice K, the Boston red Sox player always comes to Totoraku when he is town – a present from him.

dice-k-goes-to-totoraku

 

My guess is Ashima, Kaz’s wife, did this arrangement.

plant-at-toto

 

The decor

wine-bottles-at-toto

The wonderful Kaz

kaz-and-david

 

Appetizer plate

app-plate

From left to right

Alaskan King Crab “jello”

Steamed Abalone served with zenmai (Japanese mountain vegetable) and tofu topped with gold flake.

 Tomato and Ricotta Cheese topped with a bit of basil

Cantaloupe and Prosciutto

Lobster Salad with seaweed, spinach and jellyfish

Smoked Salmon Roll with avocado and sprouts

Asparagus with walnut paste 

Hard Boiled Quail Egg topped with Caviar  

Fuyu Persimmon Salad with marinated tofu, corn, mountain yams, corn, French green beans 


beef-throas-sashimi

 Beef Tataki & Beef Throat Sashimi – absolutely extraordinary. Ashima instructed us to use just the soy sauce and add either ginger or garlic to the sauce. I added neither as the beef was so perfect that I didn’t think it needed one additional component. The beef tataki had been lightly seared and again needed nothing additional.

 

beef-tartare

 Beef Tartare – unlike “normal” beef tartare, this was strips of beef with a raw egg yolk, daikon and  ???? This is to be mixed by the diner and absolutely delicious.


beef-liver1

Beef Liver – I hate liver. When I even eat chopped chicken liver, I use a dozen hard-boiled eggs for about 1/2 pound of liver. This has no relationship to liver – it is sensuous, delicious and just melt in your mouth “goodness.”

Now Ashima sets up the grill – as there were six of us, we had 2 grills.

beef-grill1

 

Given that there were 6 of us and lots of wine, lots of glasses, I apologize in advance for photos through wine glasses etc. I didn’t want picture-taking to overshadow the pure enjoyment of the evening.

 

filet-mignon

Filet Mignon with onion, pepper, mushrooms

 

veggies1

miso1

Crudites
 – a bowl of veggies – carrots, lettuce, cucumber, cabbage with a small bowl of miso dipping sauce or more like a paste.

 

tomato

There was also a “salad” of cut up tomatoes

 

outside-ribeye

Outside of the Rib Eye – just seasoned with salt and pepper

 

sinside-ribeye

 Inside of the Rib Eye – marinated

 

short-ribs

 Short Ribs


skirt-steak

  Skirt Steak

 

grilled-shabu-shabu

 This was described as beef used for shabu shabu grilled

 

soup

 Soup – I asked for mine mild. One dining companion requested spicy and be forewarned it was very spicy.

Not pictured ice cream for dessert 

BYO Wine:
Krug NV

Fx Pichler Riesling from Austria..2006

1999 Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Montebello (Magnum)

Pierre Usseglio 2005 chateauneuf de Pape

1885 Madiera

What a wonderful evening with the ever gracious Kaz and Ashima. Our guests were equally wonderful and as I mentioned at the beginning, relax, have fun and just let the experience take you for an unique ride.

 

 

 

Providence

Providence Saturday night at the Chef’s table with 4 friends was wonderful. Chef Mike is just getting better and better. I have a major problem with a lot of extraneous ingredients on the plate and what distinguishes Providence’s cuisine is the “editing.”

Amuse

prov-amuse

From left to right – Mojito Raviolo, Gin and Tonic with Lime and Greyhound Vodka Raviolo – the liquid raviolo is made with two chemical agents sodium alginate and calcium chloride. Rob of the Hungry in Hogtown blog writes, “sodium alginate, which is derived from seaweed, is a common emulsifier and thickener in the food industry…. When sodium alginate meets calcium chloride, the sodium ions in the alginate are replaced by calcium ions, thus creating a polymer skin that holds everything inside.” 

 

First course 

prov-1

Shima Aji, Shiso, Wasabi oil, lime, microgreens – absolutely delicious – 

 

Second Course

prov-2

Uni, Cauliflower Mousse, White Truffle, Crispy Buckwheat, Chive – I have said it a million times that I am an absolute sucker for good uni preparations.  This was super with very fresh uni, great texture contrast – smooth mousse and crunchy buckwheat plus truffles – what more could one ask for.

 

Third Course

prov-3

Hokkaido Scallop, Hachiya Persimmon Puree, Pink Grapefruit, Watermelon Radish, Compressed Cucumber, Wasabi, American Caviar – just a superb combination of flavors. The scallop sat on top of the grapefruit slice adding a citrus note, the persimmon puree was a definite dominant flavor (perfect for me as I love Hachiya persimmon), salty component from the caviar and the scallop was just as fresh as fresh could be.

 

Fourth Course

prov-4

 From left to right

Squid cooked sous vide with mizuna and slow roasted tomato, squid tendril, Monterey Bay Abalone cooked sous vide, Artichoke, Balsamic, Extra Virgin Olive Oil – 3 perfect pieces of fish with no extraneous ingredients.


Fifth Course

prov-5

Crispy Sweetbreads, Parsnip Puree, Shimeji Mushrooms, Almond, Truffle Fondue, Maine Lobster, Frisee, Quail Egg – many times meat and fish dishes can be a disaster, but what made this dish work were the unifying accompaniments – the truffle fondue, the quail egg and some of the best shimeji mushrooms I have tasted. I was tempted to ask for an extra side dish of mushrooms!

 

Sixth Course

King Crab Legs wrapped in Kelp,  roasted in salt, Yuzu Kosmo Butter – This took Donato quite some time to prep tableside

prov-crab-1

prov-crab-2

 prov-crab-3

prov-crab-4

Donato is adorable.

prov-crab-5

prov-crab-6

prov-crab-7

prov-crab-8-plated

Crab legs plated with the off the charts Yuzu Kosmo Butter


Seventh Course

prov-fish

Japanese Rouget, Applewood Smoked Bacon, Salsify, Rosemary, Sauce Vin Rouge – Perfectly cooked fish with absolutely glorious crunchy skin and a sauce that would make Escoffier proud.

 

Eighth Course

prov-kobe

A-5 Kobe Beef, Musque de Provence Pumpkin, Bone Marrow, Pea tendrils  – I was getting a bit full and saved a tiny piece of Kobe to eat the next day. My neighbor is raising chickens so with freshly laid eggs and a tiny slice of real Kobe, the leftovers were marvelous. I wouldn’t have minded an extra bit of bone marrow.


prov-certificate

Certificate of authenticity

 

Ninth Course

prov-cheese-1

prov-cheese-2

Cheese – my favorite were the epoisse spoons

 

Palate Cleanser

prov-celery

 Celery Sorbet – this was the only loser of the night – awful

 

Ninth Course

prov-dessert

Walnut Ricotta Torte with Crème Fraiche Ice Cream

 

BYO Wine Selections

 

1997  Soter Beacon Hill Blanc de Blanc, Oregon Sparkling Wine

1998  Corton Charlemagne, Domaine Marius Delarche

1999  Corton Charlemagne, Domaine Marius Delarche 

1983  Hermitage, M. Chapoutier

1998  Crozes-Hermitage, Domaine Combier

2003  Inniskillin Ice Wine, Niagara Peninsula,Canada, Vidal

 

What a wonderful dinner with perfect company, great service and incredible food.

 

 

Persimmon Pudding

Perfect for the holidays!

persimmon-pudding
Below is the orginal recipe. I have changed the order slightly and find that it works much better. Stir together the sugar and melted butter. Then add persimmon pulp, soda dissolved in warm water, brandy and vanilla. Now add flour mixture. Follow the rest of recipe as written –  eggs, following directions and finally raisins. I don’t add nuts.
The First Lady’s Recipe  (La Times 11/23/81)
PERSIMMONS FOR REAGAN DINNER
Thanksgiving for President and Mrs. Reagan will include a family dinner based on the traditional turkey and all the fixings.  Desert, however, will feature Mrs. Reagan’s Persimmon Pudding instead of the usual pumpkin pie.
If you’d like to follow the First Lady’s example and take advantage of the luscious ripe persimmons now in the market, here is her recipe.  Be warned , however, like the plum pudding it resembles, this is very rich, so serve small portions.
MRS. REAGAN’S PERSIMMON PUDDING
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup butter, melted
1 cup flour, sifted
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 tsp cinnamon
1/4 tsp nutmeg
1 cup pureed persimmon pulp (3-4 very ripe)
2 tsp soda
2 tsp warm water
Brandy
1 tsp vanilla
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup seedless raisins
1/2 cup chopped walnuts, optional
Brandy Whipped cream sauce
Stir together sugar and melted butter.  Re-sift flour with salt, cinnamon and nutmeg; add to butter mixture.  Add persimmon pulp, soda, dissolved in warm water, 3 table spoons brandy and vanilla.  Add eggs, mixing lightly but thoroughly.  Add raisins and nuts, stirring just until mixed.
Turn into buttered 5-6 cup steam-type mold.  Cover and place on rack in steam kettle. ( I use a stock pot that will hold mold comfortably and allow for water to reach halfway).  Pour in enough boiling water to reach halfway up sides of mold. Cover kettle or stock pot and let water gently simmer for 2 1/2 hours. Make sure that water is always simmering gently – you might have to add water during the 2 1/2 hours so the water level stays at halfway up the mold. DO NOT USE THE OVEN  This is made on the stove – it is steamed, not baked. Let stand few minutes and then unmold onto serving dish.   Pour about 1/4 cup of warmed brandy over pudding and flame.  Serve with Brandy Whipped Cream Sauce.  Makes 6-8 servings.
Brandy Whipped Cream Sauce
egg
1/3 cup butter, melted
1 cup sifted powered sugar
Dash salt
1 tablespoon brandy flavoring
1 cup whipping cream
Beat egg until light and fluffy.  Beat in butter, sugar, salt and brandy flavoring.  Beat whipping cream untill stiff.  Gently fold into egg mixture.  Cover and chill.

Chicken Soup

24 hour Chicken Soup

Gourmet April 1992

This is the best chicken soup recipe I have found. The trick is to skim for the first hour, let it simmer very, very slowly on the lowest heat – I use a flame tamer as well. You just want to see a couple of bubbles break the surface.

7 pounds chicken parts, wings and backs, thighs

15 Cups cold water or to cover by 3 inches ( approximately 20)

3/4 pound carrots, peeled and sliced into 1/2 inch chunks

3/4 pound turnips, peeled and sliced into chunks

3/4 pound parsnips, peeled and sliced into chunks

3/4 pound onions, quartered and sliced into chunks

3/4 pound celery, sliced into 1/2 inch chunks

a cheesecloth bag, containing 5 bay leaves, 6 parsley sprigs (adapted from 2), 2 dill sprigs, 4 peppercorns

1 to 2 chicken bouillon cubes or to taste if desired

In a kettle combine the chicken with enough cold water to cover it by 3 inches ( at least 15 cups) Bring the water just to the boil, skimming the froth and add carrots, turnips, parsnips, onions, celery and cheesecloth bag. Reduce heat to the point that the mixture cooks at a slow simmer and simmer the mixture, uncovered, for the first hour, skimming the froth.  Then, cover the soup, but check it frequently to make sure that it is NOT boiling, for a total of 21 hours. BOILING THE SOUP WILL CAUSE THE FAT TO EMUSLIFY AND THE STOCK WILL BECOME CLOUDY.

After 21 hours, simmer the soup for 3 hours more, uncovered.  Crumble the bouillon cubes into the stock to taste, stir the soup until the bouillon cubes are dissolved, and add salt to taste. Strain the stock through a sieve lined with dampened cheesecloth into a large bowl and let it cool until it is just warm.. Chill the soup and remove the fat the next day.  The soup may be frozen.

I generally use the matzoh ball recipe from the back of the box!

 

Another good recipe is from Star Chefs, 1998

Traditional Matzoh Balls

 4 eggs

 1/2 cup seltzer

 4 to 6 tablespoons melted (but not hot) chicken fat

 1/2 teaspoon salt

 1/4 teaspoon finely ground white pepper

 1 cup matzoh meal

 

1. With a table fork, beat the eggs until well blended.

 2. Stir in the seltzer, the schmaltz and the salt and pepper.

 3. Gradually stir in the matzoh meal. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or preferably longer.

 4. Bring a large quantity of water to a gentle boil in a very wide and deep pot with a cover; one with enough surface so that when the balls expand and float to the top, there will be only one layer of balls — and not crowded at that. I use an old-fashioned covered roaster placed over two burners.

 5. Using about 2 tablespoons of the chilled batter for each matzoh ball, and keeping your hands moist with cold water (for convenience, I keep a bowl of cold water next to me as I work), gingerly roll the batter between the palms of your hands into neat balls. As you form the balls, drop them into the boiling water.

 6. When all the balls are in the pot, cover the pot, adjust the heat so the water simmers briskly, and cook the matzoh balls for 30 minutes. They will double in size and float to the top.

 7. Remove the matzoh balls from the water with a slotted spoon and serve in hot chicken soup.

 Copyright © 1998 StarChefs All rights reserved.

matzoh-ball-soup1


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


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